Qui il mio settimanale pezzo per la mia rubrica Diario di una Lunatica sull’Orlo di una Crisi di Sensi che trovate sul magazine letterario Satisfiction diretta da Gian Paolo Serino
Gli irlandesi sono i neri d’Europa. I dublinesi sono i neri dell’Irlanda. E i dublinesi della zona nord sono i neri di Dublino si legge nel romanzo “The Commitments” (1987) dell’acclamato scrittore irlandese Roddy Doyle, divenuto nel 1991 un film di successo diretto dal regista Alan Parker. La storia narra le vicissitudini di un gruppo di giovani scompigliati e disoccupati che decidono di mettere su una band di musica soul nella Dublino dei primi anni Novanta. A quei tempi la capitale irlandese era la Dirty Old Town della canzone dei The Pogues, band folk punk anglo-irlandese, ben lontana dalla moderna Silicon Valley europea di oggi. Lo so bene perché io c’ero! Approdai, infatti, da sfrenata diciottenne nella magica isola per vivere qualche mese in una sorta di comune. Finii per innamorarmi a tal punto di questa terra incantata da farci ritorno per oltre un decennio. Furono anni di scoperta all’insegna dell’assoluta e dissoluta libertà. Fu il mio periodo Just Kids à la Patti Smith & Robert Mapplethorpe. Sedussi musicisti e barman spiantati ma appassionanti. Viaggiai in lungo e in largo, dal rurale Donegal alla musicale penisola di Dingle, giungendo nelle selvagge isole di Aran ad ascoltare i vecchi del luogo cantare canzoni in gaelico. Il tutto, of course, condito da generose dosi di pinte di Guinness. Andai a Belfast a visitare Falls Road, enclave dei cattolici duri e puri, conobbi militanti del Sinn Feinn, l’ala politica dell’I.R.A il movimento estremista nordirlandese e anni dopo scelsi di redigere la mia tesi di laurea sui Troubles.
L’Irlanda è terra di ribelli riottosi, poeti letterati, musicisti ispirati, combattenti appassionati e Dublino un autentico paradiso per i booklovers ai quali dedico questa guida letteraria.
Prima tappa obbligata è visitare la sontuosa biblioteca del Trinity College e mettersi letteralmente a sniffare l’odore dei vecchi libri. Ogni volta che lo faccio, le guardie mi osservano stranite ed io rispondo “Howdy, I am a bookaholic!”. La Long Room, com’è chiamata l’enorme sala, ospita oltre 250 mila libri antichi tra cui The Book of Kells, manoscritto miniato realizzato dai monaci irlandesi nel IX sec.
In termini di musei letterari, c’è solo l’imbarazzo della scelta: The James Joyce Centre, Yeats: The Life and Work of WB Yeats alla National Library e il Dublin Writers Museum. Aperto solo lo scorso settembre è The Museum of Literature proprio davanti al bellissimo parco di St. Stephen’s Green, dove c’è un busto dedicato a James Joyce con la citazione Crossing Stephen’s, that is my green. Da appassionata amante della letteratura, non sarei più uscita in preda a stupore e meraviglia. Il museo si snoda su tre piani, con sale immerse nelle parole scritte e orali, costellate di libri, citazioni, ispirazioni, fotografie. Quando ho visto la prima copia originale dell’Ulisse di Joyce, risalente al 1922, ci mancava poco che mi mettessi a piangere dall’emozione. Eh sì noi sapio(sessuali) siamo assai emotivi ed emozionanti! Il museo offre anche un immersivo lungometraggio dedicato ai 18 capitoli dell’Ulisse. Dulcis in fundo, proprio nel seminterrato, c’è un delizioso bistrot – The Commons Café – dove sorseggiare un tè ispirandosi ai grandi della letteratura irlandese.
Dublino vanta ancora un buon numero di librerie indipendenti: in una delle mie preferite – The Winding Stair che ospita anche un ottimo ristorante al piano superiore affacciato sul fiume Liffey – non solo mi sono imbattuta nel libro The I.R.A. di Tim Pat Coogan, fulcro della mia prima tesi di laurea in traduzione, ma ho scoperto anche un’interessante autrice irlandese del primo Novecento: Maeve Brennan. Il mio sguardo è stato rapito dalla copertina di The Visitor, sua breve novella pubblicata postuma nel 1997. Nelle sue pagine, presto divorate sorseggiando Irish Coffee nella cornice del Bewley’s Cafè – storico locale del 1927 decorato con bellissime statue Art Deco – la parola “lonely” risuona come una campana solitaria. La scrittrice non scrive solo di solitudine. Lei quella solitudine l’abita. La esibisce. La eleva a forma d’arte.
Maeve Brennan, nata nel 1917 – data epocale perché nel 1916 ci fu l’Easter Rising che portò alla guerra d’indipendenza irlandese – fu sia un’importante figura letteraria sia una donna di notevole bellezza. Minuta, dall’impeccabile educazione, e oltremodo sagace, la Brennan iniziò la sua carriera a New York lavorando per le pagine di Harper’s Bazaar fino al 1949 per poi divenire negli anni Cinquanta e Sessanta una penna fissa su The New Yorker, la leggendaria rivista letteraria che allora visse il suo periodo più influente, con la celebrata rubrica Talk of the Town dove scriveva di stile, cultura e società. Una donna irlandese a New York che dopo un matrimonio infelice scelse di vivere da sola nella città dalle mille luci e nella quale prosperò come intellettuale fino agli anni Settanta quando, colpita da esaurimento nervoso, smise di scrivere e divenne un’eccentrica squatter vivendo in una stanzetta all’interno degli uffici della rivista newyorchese. Si racconta che ne emergesse solo per infastidire lo staff e alla fine fu internata in una serie di ospedali psichiatrici prima della sua morte avvenuta all’età di 76 anni. Il suo stile e la sua persona mi hanno ricordato un’altra delle mie eroine di penna: Irene Brin, giornalista italiana di costume e scrittrice, viaggiatrice, donna di grande cultura, intelligenza e stile.
Un’altra chicca letteraria dublinese è Sweny antica apothecary risalente al 1847, situata a 100 metri dalla casa dove nacque Oscar Wilde, nella quale mi sono imbattuta per caso passeggiando – sono una passeggiatrice seriale – per le viuzze della città. Rapita dalla vetrina dove sono esposti libri e pozioni – entrambi magici – sono entrata curiosa e sono stata accolta da un sorridente e strambo personaggio: Mr. PG dai ribelli capelli bianchi. Dublinese doc, il simpatico “farmacista” poliglotta (parla 10 lingue) mi ha raccontato la storia della libreria/farmacia, ha intonato una canzone in gaelico con la chitarra e mi ha invitato a un reading in italiano dell’Ulisse.
Sweny’s – che è stata “preserved through neglect”, preservata attraverso l’incuria – vanta l’onore di essere descritta in dettaglio nell’Ulisse di James Joyce, cliente dell’antica farmacia, così come lo furono Oscar Wilde e Samuel Beckett. Leopold Bloom, l’eroe del libro, entra nel negozio, ammira i flaconcini delle pozioni e riflette sull’alchimia posseduta dal locale. In attesa del farmacista, Bloom annusa il sapone al limone sul bancone e ne compra un pezzo. Il sapone diventa il talismano per il suo viaggio che ogni 16 giugno – il giorno in cui si svolge l’intera trama del capolavoro di Joyce – a Dublino è ricreato nel Bloomsday quando tutta la città si veste come i personaggi del libro e ovunque ci sono letture, rappresentazioni, citazioni e bevute letterarie.
Del resto, come scrisse il drammaturgo irlandese Samuel Beckett: Nasciamo tutti matti. Qualcuno lo rimane.
Io rimango.
Qui a Dublino …
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